How To Work With Clay Soils
Clay soils have their attributes — they can hold huge amounts of plant nutrients and
they hold onto water really well.
When you walk about your yard on a wet day, do your shoes stick in the mud? Could you
make ceramic pots out of the soil in your garden? Odds are you have clay soil, one of the
biggest challenges to the home gardener.
Finely textured clay soils are difficult to work up and develop into a good seedbed. If the clay
is dry, it tends to be very hard and lumpy. If it is wet, it tends to be very sticky and difficult to
manipulate. It seems like a gardener's nightmare.
Clay Soil Plant List
While it is impossible to alter the texture of a soil, you can increase the soil organic matter,
which in turn will change the structure of soil. In gardening, having soil organic matter
make up 4-6% of your soil profile is a great goal to strive for; this can be achieved by
incorporating compost, green manure, animal manure, and leaf litter.
Soil compaction occurs when soil particles are pressed together, reducing pore space between
them. Heavily compacted soils contain few large pores, less total pore volume and, consequently,
a greater density.
A compacted soil has a reduced rate of both water infiltration and drainage. This happens because
large pores more effectively move water downward through the soil than smaller pores.
The first precaution you will need to take is to baby your clay soil. Clay soil is particularly
susceptible to compaction. Compaction will lead to poor drainage and the dreaded clods
that gum up tillers and make working clay soil such a pain. In order to avoid compacting
the soil, never work the soil while it is wet. As a matter of fact, until your clay soil is
corrected, avoid overworking your soil with excessive tilling. Try to avoid walking on the
soil whenever possible.
Improving soil structure is the best defense against soil compaction. A well-structured soil
holds and conducts the water, nutrients and air necessary for healthy plant root activity.
Mulch provides a number of vital services, including maintaining soil temperatures,
reducing soil compaction, increasing organic matter, conserving water, and reducing
weed pressure. Using mulch helps to maintain the soil structure and supports a diverse
ecosystem for micro and macro organisms through the breakdown of mulch over time
and the creation of habitat for these organisms. Common mulch materials are bark,
straw, compost, grass clippings, leaves, pine needles, or wood chips.
Implementing cover cropping into your garden system can improve soil structure,
increase organic matter, increase soil aeration, and aid in nutrient cycling. This is
especially true if you are experiencing compact clay soils. Planting a cover crop is
an effective way to reduce soil erosion by having plants “hold” soil in place via root
structure and by holding moisture and slowing water filtration through the soil
profile. After the cover cropping cycle is complete, a cover crop can act as a form
of green manure when the cover crop is turned over and incorporated into the soil.
Select plants that have a better chance of thriving within clay soil. Great vegetables
that don't mind having excess moisture include broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, beans,
and peas. Flowers that do well in clay soils include Aster, Purple Coneflower, Geranium,
Heliopsis, Sage, Black-eyed Susan, and Skullcap.
The table below has 26 plants that are tolerant of clay soils. The list includes both full sun
and shade tolerant plants, flowers, grasses, ferns and sedges. This is only a partial list but
includes plants that are commonly found at your local native plant nursery.
EARLY
|
Brome-Like Sedge
|
Carex bromoides |
Green |
1-2' |
|
C,L |
O,W |
Creek Sedge
|
Carex amphibola |
Green |
1-2' |
|
C,L |
M,O,W |
Pussy Willow
|
Salix discolor |
White |
10-20' |
|
L,S,C |
O,W |
Trillium
|
Trillium grandiflorum |
White,Pink |
1-2' |
|
C,L,S |
D,M |
Virginia Bluebells
|
Mertensia virginica |
Blue,Lavender |
3' |
|
C,L,S |
M,O |
White Dolls Eyes
|
Actaea alba |
White |
1-2' |
|
L,C,S |
M |
Canadian Wild Ginger
|
Asarum canadense |
Red |
3-5" |
|
C,L |
O |
MID |
Blue False Indigo
|
Baptisia australis |
Blue |
3-5' |
|
C,L,S |
D,M |
Wild Blue Phlox
|
Phlox divaricata |
Blue |
1-2' |
|
C,L,S |
M,O |
Pale Purple Coneflower
|
Echinacea pallida |
Purple |
3-5' |
|
C,L,S |
D,M |
Wild Iris
|
Iris shrevei
|
Blue
|
2-3'
|
|
C,L,S
|
W
|
MID-LATE |
Black Cohosh
|
Actaea racemosa |
White |
4-6' |
|
C,L,S |
M,O |
Black-Eyed Susan
|
Rudbeckia hirta |
Yellow |
1-3' |
|
C,L,S |
D,M,O |
Butterflyweed
|
Asclepias tuberosa |
Orange |
2-3' |
|
C,L |
D,M |
Canada Wild Rye
|
Elymus canadensis |
Straw |
4-5' |
|
C,L,S |
D,M,O |
Common Milkweed
|
Asclepias syriaca |
Pink,Lavender |
2-4' |
|
C,L,S |
D,M |
Lady Fern
|
Athyrium filix-femina |
Non-flowering |
1-3' |
|
C,L |
D,M,O |
Prairie Blazing Star
|
Liatris pycnostachya |
Purple |
3-5' |
|
C,L,S |
M,O |
Purple Prairie Clover
|
Dalea purpurea |
Purple |
1-2' |
|
C,L,S |
D,M |
Rattlesnake Master
|
Eryngium yucciforium |
White |
4' |
|
C,L,S |
D,M |
Red Baneberry
|
Actaea rubra |
White |
1-2' |
|
C,L,S |
M,O |
Scarlet Beebalm
|
Monarda didyma |
Red |
3-5' |
|
C,L.S |
M,O |
LATE
|
Joe Pye Weed
|
Eupatorium purpureum |
Pink |
4-6' |
|
C,L,S |
M |
New England Aster
|
Symphyotrichum
novae-angliae |
Purple |
6' |
|
C,L,S |
M,O |
Showy Sunflower
|
Helianthus laetiflorus |
Purple |
6' |
|
C,L,S |
D,M |
Stiff Goldenrod
|
Solidago rigida |
Yellow |
3-5' |
|
C,L,S |
D,M |
SOIL:
L = Loam
C = Clay
S = Sandy
R = Rocky
MOISTURE:
D = Dry
M = Medium
O = Moist
W = Wet